"It's a European Shoulder Bag"

I'm really doing a lot of moving around on this trip. I've not stayed in one place more than two nights. While that's typically long enough to see both the sights and sites and get a sense of the hamlet I'm visiting, my preference would be to go someplace and stay there for a while. For now, however, that really doesn't fit with my philosophy of travel: while I'm "young" and able, I want to see/do as much as I can. I am assuming I will eventually arrive at the point in which I am no longer able nor interested in hiking to the tops of mountain fortresses or lugging a 40 lb. backpack around. Then, my plan is to return to some of the favorite places I've visited, rent a place and spend my time wandering around town, meeting my neighbors, and discovering the bakery with the freshest bread.

That day may be closer than I want to believe. I'm certain the general neglect of my physical health plays a big part, but I'm noticing I'm not snapping back quite as quickly as I have in the past after a full day of climbing, exploring, and traipsing. After leaving Kardamyli, I traveled to the 13th century castle of Monevasia on the southeastern tip of Greece. I'll let you research the specifics, but suffice to say this Gibraltar-like landmass was originally held by the Ottoman Empire, the Byzantines, the Venetians, and finally by the Greeks.


Now, the entire walled village at the base is a Unesco World Heritage site, inaccessible by car, and completely surrounded by water, save a small isthmus connecting it to the mainland. Monemvasia (moh-mehm-VAH-see-ah) actually means "one entrance". I stayed in a 450 year old bedroom converted to a hotel room:

Although normally outside my lean-and-mean travel budget, I've discovered traveling at shoulder-season, showing up at dusk with no reservation, and having cash-in-hand softens those prices right up. And it was worth it! The setting was incredible. I felt like a 13 year old as I explored narrow passages, hiked up and down cobblestone streets, and managed to get lost more than a few times. The day before I left, I hiked to the very top of the rock and explored the citadel:

I took many more photographs during my time in Monemvasia than I can include here. But I will share the sunset I captured on my first day there:



If you've done any traveling in Europe over the last few years, you've probably noticed the disturbing trend of men sculpting their eyebrows. I'm not talking plucking or a general trim, but rather an aggressive, time-consuming, all out effort to reduce the overall footprint of said brow. Although I find it makes the man look like a depilated mannequin, I have just chalked this up to being one of any number of differences I notice in people when traveling. I've just hoped the trend will go the way of the man-purse and stay on this side of the pond. I'll be happy to make an exception for Greek men, however. Did you know Bert is Greek?



Although I have a strong preference for independent travel, there is a large contingent of the world that visits far off lands by tour bus. These buses are lined up at most locations like Baptists at Luby's Sunday lunch. I usually endure their large amorphous mass as it slowly moves from one shady spot to the next, following their obnoxiously entitled, purple umbrella toting tour guide. I have the advantage: I'm alone, informed, and agile. I'm a gazelle. However, after many long days of travel, more than my share of Greek salads, and accommodating the disproportionately misrepresented number of Germans, I get a little passive-aggressive. Today at the Mycenae ruins just to the south of Athens (think home of Agamemnon, Achilles, Odysseus, and givers of the Trojan Horse), I acted out a little. At the very end of the path through the ruins, there is a very deep, dark tunnel leading to the underground cistern:


Using the light on my iPhone, I had traveled very deeply, all the way to the waterline and was working my way back up the stairs when I heard the melodic tones of German teenagers decending the stairs...sans flashlight. I quickly turned off my light and waited in the shadows. As the girls came around the corner, eyes still adjusting to the center-of-the-earth darkness swallowing them, I quietly began making my very best angry vampire noise...and moving toward them. I'm really not sure what happened next. I just started shrieking and running toward them, past them, then emerging from the mouth of the pit before they could regain their wits. I do remember the echoes of their screams still ringing in my head as I contentedly strolled toward the museum.

As I'm writing this missive, I am currently aboard the Blue Star 2, crossing the Aegean and headed toward the island of Patmos, the island to which the apostle John was exiled from Ephesus. This is the same John, the disciple who Jesus loved, who wrote the book of Revelation. I can't wait. However, this is not the friendliest of travel itineraries: the only boats to Patmos leave at 7PM and arrive at 2:15AM...just a little over three hours from now. Because my sources tell me people with rooms to rent meet the arriving boat, I have not made any arrangements for my accommodations. Worst case scenario, I can pull out my sleeping bag and sleep in the park. [This is exactly the type of detail I intentionally omit when sharing my itinerary with my mother.] I figured if John could do it, I can handle it for one night. But I'm certain it'll work out. Famous last words... I'll be on Patmos until Friday and then travel to Kusadasi, the southwestern Aegean port of Turkey, and gateway to Ephesus!

Thank you for reading, praying, and staying in touch with me, friends. I'm having a great time but I'd be lying if I didn't say I am feeling a bit of the isolation that comes with traveling alone...or with a bunch of people who don't speak my language. Wish you were here!

UPDATE: I arrived at 2:15AM this morning on the ferry. As I was hoping, I met a woman at the port named "Susanna" who rents little studio apartments to travelers. [She's a single mother of three girls - 7, 11, 16 - who meets 4-5 boats a day, apparently at all hours, to keep her rooms full and make ends meet.] Turns out to be one of the most comfortable AND cheapest I've stayed in so far. I've rented a 4-wheeler and am exploring the island...or will as soon as I've checked the interwebs. First things first, after all. I've also found out there is a special liturgy tonight from 8PM-1AM at the St. John the Apostle church. Susanna is going and has invited me to join her. Let's hope it's not my wedding I've been invited to attend ;-)

Location:Middle of the Aegean Sea