30 May 2008
29 May 2008
24 May 2008
Florence, Italy
After just a lovely time in Venice, I traveled to Florence via the Eurostar Train network, the European answer to the Japanese bullet trains...though still not as fast. However, in a matter of 2.5 hours, I traversed 165 miles more comfortably than in a plane. It was a great and fast trip. Upon arrival, I went directly to the Sisters of Saint Elizabeth Convent on Via Michelangelo, and checked in. It’s a different experience than staying in a hostel or hotel to stay in a convent. It was very clean, regimented...almost institutional. Yet, as I expected, there was a real peace and stillness about the grounds. By far, this was the most beautiful of all my accommodations - including the Carnival Freedom. Breakfast was included in my accommodations...as were table assignments and a German-speaking tablemate. Turns out that all of the nuns and most of the guests were all German-speakers. Just when I feel like I'm getting a little more comfortable with my buongiornos and no parlo italiano...I have to switch to gutenmorgen and no sprechen zi deutch. My brain hurt. And they'd have none of this Spanish business either. Actually, the nuns did speak Italian and we were able to come to an understanding. They were especially 'understanding' when it came time to settle up the bill ☺
So, after getting settled into my cloister, I headed for Il Duomo...basically the main church at the center of downtown Florence. Although I caught a bus downtown, I was consistently amazed by how many people were walking from place to place. Of course, there was the occasional Vespa (which I now understand means "wasp" in Italian) and the gas-crises' answer to the automobile, but for the most part people just walked from point A to point B. That also probably has a lot to do with why the only overweight people I ever saw were the tourists...getting in and out of their air conditioned busses and being led around by the nose by their Disneyesque daisy-wielding, Brittany headset-wearing tour guides. I walked around old Renaissance Florence and was completely enamored by the romance, history, and rhythm of this ancient city. While being carried along by these heady currents, I was swept into a small store and got a small...very small...bowl of pistachio and coconut gelato. After I had paid my €6 and continued down the street, once again in current of the Italian Lazy River, I realized that I had paid $9 for about 1/3 of a pint of ice cream. I laughed at the irony of the effort I had exerted to find the best deals for disposable thrift store clothes before I left, only to drop a ten-spot on two scoops in Italy.
I found my way into the Medici Chapel and saw where they're buried...along with Michelangelo's sculptures to honor them. Can you believe that I actually wept when walking around looking at those sculptures? I was actually reading Irving Stone's, The Agony and the Ecstasy...the fictionalized version of Michelangelo's life, from age 13 to his death. Perhaps that's what got me all verklempt. But I had the same overwhelming experience in Venice while riding the vaporetto at sunset down the Grand Canal.
The next day I had reservations at both the Accademia and the Uffizi, two of Italy's most popular museums and galleries. These were two other spots were reservations ahead of time saved me HOURS of standing in long lines. In the Accademia, I saw Michelangelo's original David. Although I've seen copies in other cities before, I am nevertheless always astounded at the sheer beauty of this sculpture...the perfection and artistic craft that went into freeing David from his block of white marble. I also went into the Santa Croce church, and saw the burial sites of Machiavelli (said, "the end justifies the means"), Marconi the physicist, Dante Alighieri the poet, Galileo the astronomer/scientist, and Michelangelo the artist - too sobering to walk among the final resting places of these HUGE men of history. Oh, yeah...I also saw John the Baptist's little finger. There's a picture of it if you're curious...and you know you are.
My last day in Florence, I took a leisurely morning just sampling espresso at any number of bars around the old city...actually, that's really no different than any other morning I spent in Italy...and then went to a half-day cooking class in a 1000 year old castle in the hills of Tuscany. I had originally signed up for the full day class, which included a tour of a winery - Oh yeah, it’s Italy. They even drink it for breakfast. - and sampling of olive oils. I changed my plans and opted just to meet up with the group later at the castle. While I waiting for them to arrive, I went to the top of the tower and looked out over the beautiful hillside. According to the owner of the castle, it was used by the Allies in WWII as a lookout post because of its great view. My host left me with a pair of binoculars and a hammock to rest until my other "cooks" arrived. While I was waiting, I noticed all these fresh herbs that they were growing on the roof of the tower. Upon closer inspection, I noticed one particular herb that is more commonly used in "baking." You'll have to just look at my pictures. We made homemade raviolis, filled with spinach, parmesan, and ricotta cheeses, and also fettuccini. After making our pasta, we cooked them and had lunch. The class and lunch were wonderful.
After saying so long to the Sisters of Saint Sassy, I was on my way to Siena...the hill country of Tuscany.
20 May 2008
Venice, Italy
Venice was so beautiful...my pictures don't really even do it justice. I've wondered which of the cities I visited in Italy was my favorite, but that's a tough question. Each city has its own character...qualities that make it so different from the other. Venice was definitely in its own category. A city made of islands, the only motorized transportation permitted are the water taxis and vaporettos, the motorized boats that zip the city's inhabitants and tourists around the island by way of the Grand Canal. Of course, there are the gondolas, used mostly by tourists and by locals for special occasions and weddings. I thought about dropping the €80 to ride around in one for an hour or so...but when I pictured myself, alone in a gondola in Venice, being serenaded by a confused and embarrassed gondolier...well, it was a scene I thought best kept to myself.
On the land portion of the island, the only way to get around is on foot...and you had better have two very capable feet to get from point A to point B. There are over 400 bridges spanning each of the little waterways around the island, some by slope and some by stair. Perhaps the smartest €3 that I spent my entire trip was on a map of Venice. With so many waterways, bridges, corners, etc., you cannot imagine how easy it is to get lost in such a small area. The map saved me numerous times when I ended up in blind alleys or in parts of the city that I couldn't identify. Fortunately, with so many blind corners and recessed doorways, I was able to "disappear" for a minute off the grid of very narrow pathways and reorient myself. Second only to ordering my coffee, I learned Italian for "Excuse me, please. Where is (fill-in-the-blank)?" without having to think about it. Even though I'm describing getting "lost" down dark alleyways, I never felt endangered or fearful. I was on an island, after all. As long as I wasn't underwater, I felt like my momentary misplacement of Michael would work itself out.
The city, itself, was beautiful. There were various piazzas around the city, filled in the evening with parents and children, lovers, and consumers of gelato. The most famous piazza was St. Mark's Square, the home of St. Mark's Basilica, the Doge's Palace, and The Cafe Florian - a restaurant opened in 1720 (...that's a restaurant that is 56 years older than the United States) in St. Mark's Square that is reputed to be the first place in all of Italy to serve the glory known as Coffee. The also have a 5 piece string ensemble playing arias across the square...glorious.
The most astounding place I saw while in Venice was St. Mark's Basilica. It was filled with beautiful artwork, incredible sculptures, and priceless religious pieces...including the bones of St. Mark, the apostle, and various body parts from saints from around the world, called "relics." I'm not sure what it is with Italians or Catholics...but this was only the beginning of what became my personal interest in each of the churches I visited. In each church, I would look for the most unusual or bizarre relic I could find. I took pictures of some, but was mostly forbidden to take pictures out of respect for the sanctity of the "holy items" I was observing. Because St. Mark's is so popular on the tourist circuit, there was a line around the building, down the block, around the corner, and over what seemed like at least 200 of those 400 bridges. Thanks to Rick Steves, I read that large bags were not allowed inside the church...in the event one wished to abscond with the jaw of Lazarus, I suppose. Consequently, I checked a bag in this unmarked location near St. Marks and was given a small card with a number to reclaim my bag. Once I returned to St. Marks, I went directly to the door - to the head of the line - and walked right in by just flashing my numbered card to the doorkeeper. That little trick and the 3 hours it saved me (and no small amount of pleasure at seeing the confused look on the faces of those ill-prepared-line-waiting tourists as I walked past them into the church, hallelujah) was worth the price of admission.
Venice was really a beautiful city and a great place to experience. Later in my journey, I ran into a couple in Rome (actually from Dallas) who had been engaged in Venice just a week earlier. I could totally see that happening. Italy just seems to bring that out in people...at least from what I could tell as an outside observer. My coffee and I, however, had a lovely time together. ☺ On to Florence!
17 May 2008
Pisa to Cinque Terre, Italy
Well, there were no problems getting off the ship in Livorno. The cruise continued on to Rome, but I opted to "debark" the day before, enabling me to begin my trip in the northern part of Italy and working south to Rome. In retrospect, I am *thrilled* with this decision, if for nothing more than avoiding the process of being herded like cattle off the ship with the other 2,999 people.
I worked my way through Livorno - just a stopping point for cruise ships - and eventually got to Pisa. My little Welcome To Italy package waiting for me was a little scheduled transit strike. No problem for those with cars, but for those relying on the public transportation system, just a little glitch. Fortunately, however, when I was needing to use the train to get from Livorno to Pisa, the bus system was on strike. Then, while touring Pisa, the train was on strike. By the time I was ready to continue by train to Cinque Terre, the strike was over and I continued on my merry way.
Once I arrived in Cinque Terre - a very rustic, undeveloped fishing village, declared an International Historical Site a few years ago - I didn't have a room reservation but was confident that I would find a room pretty easily. I think I've got a couple of pictures of my room...including the Mamma Mia across the way lowering a bucket of who-knows-what to Pappa Mia. Cinque Terre translates as Five Lands in Italian, because it is a collection of five small villages built into the side of the mountain right on (and in many cases, over) the water. I wish I could convey to you the experience I had as I got off the train in Riomaggiore (ree-oh-mah-JOR-ay), the first of the five small towns. I was enveloped in a cloud of the scent of fresh honeysuckle, wild lemon and fresh rain. Can you imagine that? Now, take that and combine it with the realization that you're in Italy, have a committed budget for the trip, and don't have to wash dishes or pay a bill for a month. Yes...THAT feeling.
OK, so no hotel reservation. I had read in my travel books that rooms just have a way of finding you in Cinque Terre. Sure enough, Simone walked up to me and asked if I had a place to stay. I told him that I didn't and he led me up some stairs, then a hill, then some more stairs, and then a small slope, around a corner, up some stairs, to a steep slope up, to my new home for two days...on the third floor. Elevator? Yeah, sure. It was actually a great place, hot water, and a view of the sea for about €30...like $45 a night.
I spent that night exploring Riomaggiore and planning my next day hiking around the other four towns. There is actually a path built alongside the mountain that connects the five towns, complete with a Tunnel of Love. That night I had a great dinner and met Manuelo, the local gelato vendor. Manuelo was to introduce me to my first Italian gelato. Upon his recommendation, I had a fresh crepe, cooked in front of me and topped with fresh lemon juice, powdered sugar, and two scoops of gelato limone - their homemade lemon gelato. Sensory overload. The next morning I found myself lying alone in the middle of the street, powdered sugar all over my face and smelling lemony fresh. OK, not really. But it was really almost too much of a good thing...but not quite. It was actually so good, I went back to see Manuelo again the next night for a repeat performance.
The next day was lovely, walking leisurely from town to town, stopping in each town to run into the local bar for un doppio nero (a double espresso, black) and just wandering aimlessly. In Vernazza, the fourth town, I had lunch in The Castle Restaurant, up some stairs, around a corner (hello, kitty), up some more stairs...you get the idea...and then hanging out above the georgeous turquoise water. I told the waiter to bring me what he wanted, which turned out to be fresh fettuccini and muscles, homemade bread, and then homemade (OK, from now on, just consider every food that I mention is 'homemade') tiramisu and, of course, un doppio nero. Cinque Terra was a beautiful experience and a nice, soft way to enter into the Italian experience. On to Venice....
15 May 2008
Vacation.Cruise3
OK, finishing up the cruise pictures. We made a few stops along the way. After leaving Sint Maarten, we took five days to cross the Atlantic. Gotta tell ya, even on a ship that is the length of three football fields and taller than the Statue of Liberty, one does run out of things to do...at least things that one would want to do. I'd heard about the tendency of that salt air to "shrink" the passenger's clothes. Knowing that, I spent a fair amount of time in the gym on the treadmill and then also committed to taking the stairs rather than any of the readily available elevators. Now, you'd think there wouldn't be that many stairs on a ship, but the Carnival Freedom had twelve decks...and that's a lot of stairs. My cabin was starboard, aft...in the far rear of the ship on the right. My daily restaurant and the gym were port, forward...front of the ship, on the left. That was a hike everyday. A couple of days, I went to the 24 hour pizzaria on board, ordered a pizza and took it back to my room. I thought to myself, 'if I were at home, I would have had this delivered!'
Anyway, the ports...after arriving in Europe waters, we first stopped on the island of Madeira, Portugal, in the city of Funchal. Madeira is just off the northwestern coast of the continent of Africa...within eyshot of Tangiers. I knew this going into it, but the frustration of being in a new country for only 8 hours is beyond comprehension. You know, they don't even stamp our passports?! Not sure how Homeland Security would feel about that. However, if you ever need to relocate annonymously, just go on a cruise and get off the ship and don't get back on. You can just disappear into the masses. Of course, not speaking Portugese might be a problem. Funchal (foon-CHAHL...the cruise director insisted on pronouncing it FUHN-chul...grrrrr) was a beautiful city. In each of the ports, I opted to not go on the we'll-hold-your-hand-and-spoonfeed-you-what-we-want-you-to-see-and-then-charge-you-eighteen-times-what-you'd-pay-if-you-did-it-on-your-own excursions that the ship offered nauseatingly frequently. Did I mention how I felt like I was trapped in a bad rerun of the Home Shopping Network? Everyone was very nice on the ship, the crew I mean, but if they got the sense that you were one of those who wasn't there to shop, they moved on to larger fish. Anyway, I went to the botanical gardens, rode the cable cars up and down the mountains, walked through a market. 'No, no thank you. No goat testicle for me today.'
Back aboard ship, my friends and I had made reservations to dine in the Sun King Restaurant, the "6 Star Restaurant" available to those who were willing to pay (here come's another favorite cruiseism) "a nominal fee." At least prices were still in dollars on the ship. Have you met my Euro? Wow...more about that later. The restaurant was truly phenomenal. Probably the finest meal that I have ever eaten. You can see some of the pictures in the blog. It was difficult, but I did manage to consume my entire 24 ounce porterhouse steak, medium rare, with bleu cheese. Man, was it awesome.
The next day was a sea and about midnight we passed through the straight of Gibralter. The closest thing that anyone could make out were the very faint lights of northern Africa...its the black picture that I have. We then stopped in Malaga (MAL-a-gah), Spain. I think I'm the first of my family to go to Spain. You know, I didn't have to spell my last name once while visiting?! Wow...what incredibly beautiful people I am finding both in Spain and in Italy. Without exaggeration, 90 percent of the people look like they walked right off of the pages of a magazine...from cab drivers to the homeless to business people to students. It is really amazing. I think they must do live airbrushing in Europe like we tan in the States. I was off the boat early (still couldn't shake that rocking sensation) and headed for the Picasso Museum, the birthplace of Picasso, coffee, coffee, coffee, walking the street, and cafes...just being in Spain. It was a beautiful day. I've actually had quite a few of those. That's enough blogging for now. Next stop, Italy!
05 May 2008
Vacation.Cruise2
Life aboard ship has been fun, interesting, entertaining. Traveling alone...combined with wearing my sunglasses and my iPod turned *off* has made for some very interesting observations of people, their behavior, and their conversations. I think people are basically complainers at heart and this trip has really confirmed that. It is amazing to sit and listen to folks on a luxury cruise, spending and eating what 95% of the world will never experience, and yet still finding things to complain about. Its been very convicting to me. I´ve found myself trying to be more patient, express gratitude to those around me, and find even the smallest things to be thankful for. I´ve loved the reminder of how blessed we are, no matter how much or how little we have. You'll be proud to know that I've only pushed the worst complainers overboard.
I continue to find all manner of ways to get into trouble on the ship. James, one of the cruise directors, convinced me to participate in The Dating Game...a game I even avoid in real life. I was the selecting Bachelor...and my oh my, what a selection I had to choose from. My "choice" was a little less than choice: a 3 time divorced grandmother of God knows how many his, her's, our's. Then, dream of dreams, we were awarded an excursion in Madeira to visit the wine country and numerous vineyards...all with tastings, of course. And this was to occur today, May 5, ironically my 2 year anniversary of when I quit drinking. The Lord certainly has a sense of humor. I graciously declined the "opportunity" and gave the excursion to Granny and her (heretofore absent) NASCAR boyfriend. There's certainly a wide range of passengers on board the Carnival Freedom.
I've met some fun people...even a few barbershoppers who were excited to hear that I sing with the Vocal Majority. They were mainly excited because they wanted to tell me how we're "ruining the society with our non-barbershop music" along with some lovely things to say about some people that I respect. Yes, of all the oceans and all the ships, I find a KIBber infestation on my ship. Also met some fun folks from NYC. I had a spa day, got my teeth whitened, am playing volleyball and minature golf, and now am heading back out to the streets of Madeira, Portugal. We'll be in Malaga, Spain, on Wednesday, and then land in Livorno, Italy, on Friday. Can't wait!
Love you all. Thank you for your emails, comments, messages, prayers, etc. I miss you and think of all the fun things we would enjoy if you were with me. Of course, the invitation is still open to join me in Italy from 9-23 May! Michael