Well, there were no problems getting off the ship in Livorno. The cruise continued on to Rome, but I opted to "debark" the day before, enabling me to begin my trip in the northern part of Italy and working south to Rome. In retrospect, I am *thrilled* with this decision, if for nothing more than avoiding the process of being herded like cattle off the ship with the other 2,999 people.
I worked my way through Livorno - just a stopping point for cruise ships - and eventually got to Pisa. My little Welcome To Italy package waiting for me was a little scheduled transit strike. No problem for those with cars, but for those relying on the public transportation system, just a little glitch. Fortunately, however, when I was needing to use the train to get from Livorno to Pisa, the bus system was on strike. Then, while touring Pisa, the train was on strike. By the time I was ready to continue by train to Cinque Terre, the strike was over and I continued on my merry way.
Once I arrived in Cinque Terre - a very rustic, undeveloped fishing village, declared an International Historical Site a few years ago - I didn't have a room reservation but was confident that I would find a room pretty easily. I think I've got a couple of pictures of my room...including the Mamma Mia across the way lowering a bucket of who-knows-what to Pappa Mia. Cinque Terre translates as Five Lands in Italian, because it is a collection of five small villages built into the side of the mountain right on (and in many cases, over) the water. I wish I could convey to you the experience I had as I got off the train in Riomaggiore (ree-oh-mah-JOR-ay), the first of the five small towns. I was enveloped in a cloud of the scent of fresh honeysuckle, wild lemon and fresh rain. Can you imagine that? Now, take that and combine it with the realization that you're in Italy, have a committed budget for the trip, and don't have to wash dishes or pay a bill for a month. Yes...THAT feeling.
OK, so no hotel reservation. I had read in my travel books that rooms just have a way of finding you in Cinque Terre. Sure enough, Simone walked up to me and asked if I had a place to stay. I told him that I didn't and he led me up some stairs, then a hill, then some more stairs, and then a small slope, around a corner, up some stairs, to a steep slope up, to my new home for two days...on the third floor. Elevator? Yeah, sure. It was actually a great place, hot water, and a view of the sea for about €30...like $45 a night.
I spent that night exploring Riomaggiore and planning my next day hiking around the other four towns. There is actually a path built alongside the mountain that connects the five towns, complete with a Tunnel of Love. That night I had a great dinner and met Manuelo, the local gelato vendor. Manuelo was to introduce me to my first Italian gelato. Upon his recommendation, I had a fresh crepe, cooked in front of me and topped with fresh lemon juice, powdered sugar, and two scoops of gelato limone - their homemade lemon gelato. Sensory overload. The next morning I found myself lying alone in the middle of the street, powdered sugar all over my face and smelling lemony fresh. OK, not really. But it was really almost too much of a good thing...but not quite. It was actually so good, I went back to see Manuelo again the next night for a repeat performance.
The next day was lovely, walking leisurely from town to town, stopping in each town to run into the local bar for un doppio nero (a double espresso, black) and just wandering aimlessly. In Vernazza, the fourth town, I had lunch in The Castle Restaurant, up some stairs, around a corner (hello, kitty), up some more stairs...you get the idea...and then hanging out above the georgeous turquoise water. I told the waiter to bring me what he wanted, which turned out to be fresh fettuccini and muscles, homemade bread, and then homemade (OK, from now on, just consider every food that I mention is 'homemade') tiramisu and, of course, un doppio nero. Cinque Terra was a beautiful experience and a nice, soft way to enter into the Italian experience. On to Venice....
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