29 September 2011

Just keep your eyes straight ahead, mate!

In my reading about Greece, I have come across an interesting statistic: per person, the average Greek citizen consumes 63 pounds of cheese and 7 gallons of olive oil per year. That's a little more than one pound of cheese per week! But I can see how it could happen. Try as I might to order something different, every single meal I somehow end up with what I suspect to be the principle culprit, a Greek salad. My Greek language acquisition is so atrocious, I don't blame the poor Taberna waitstaff. For all I know, they hear me saying, 'Blahblah toothpick blahblah doorknob blahblah wheelbarrow blahblah bring me a Greek salad and don't be stingy with the olive oil or feta!' In addition to the fresh tomatoes, purple onion, bell pepper, cucumber, and handful of Kalamata olives thrown in, last night's salad had about half a cup of fresh olive oil and a slab of feta the size of your average heart monitor. I had to ask for two extra slices of toasted peasant bread to sop it all up.

After leaving Delphi yesterday, I took an unintentionally scenic drive through the Peloponnese countryside, eventually arriving at Olympia, the site of the first Olympics, dating back to 1,162 B.C. It absolutely astounds me that there has been civilizations around that long. When I was in Athens, I visited the National Archeological Museum and saw some intact Cycladic sculptures dating back to >2,500 B.C. I'm not sure what it is that makes the idea of humans existing (and sculpting) more than 4,000 years ago so amazing to me. Perhaps I am just that narcissistic. Anyway, Olympia was fantastic, as was Delphi. I'll have more than enough pictures to keep you engaged, should you want to see them. But I'll tell ya, seeing all these ancient sites, is just gonna ruin future visits to those new-kids-on-the-block-by-comparison Aztec and Maya temples in Mexico. Here's a shot of the Temple of Athena in Delphi. The Oracle did her thing in the less-photogenic Temple of Apollo, just up the hill.


I mentioned taking a scenic route to Kardamyli yesterday. One of the more useful things I brought with me is a GPS I picked up before this trip. I planned to do some driving in both Greece and Turkey, and knew I would need a little help navigating. It has been a lifesaver, if not entertaining at times. For example, while on my way to my current base, Mr. Garmin routed me through Kalamata. Yup, same as the olive. [I had always assumed Kalamata was in Italy, but turns out to be in Greece.] I had planned to at least stop there and take a picture, but Mr. Garmin convinced me otherwise. To keep myself entertained, I've changed the GPS voice to have an Australian accent, a generally pleasant lilt reminding me of fun times, knives, and having shrimp with Barbie. Now, you and I pronounce Kalamata as kah-lah-MAH-tah. Alex the Aussie pronounces it as "calamitous". After my visit with the Oracle the day before, I thought it prudent to avoid bad omens. Here's me having both an espresso doppio and French press this morning in Kardamyli.


I don't think I've made a point to say how beautiful Greece is, from the city to the coast. Of course, when I'm on vacation in unfamiliar locations, I find even the local laundromat exotic. This afternoon I had lunch in the village of Themales, while sitting in a courtyard shaded by grapevines. Currently, I writing this blog entry seated in the shade of an old olive tree, watching as the sun sets into the turquoise Messinian Gulf. Although it had not occurred to me before sitting down, I now recall European women frequently swim topless. It seems that is also the case at this beach. So let's tally the score: free alcohol on the plane, topless women at the beach, and unlimited romantic settings. If they didn't have espresso machines on every corner, I might think I was on the wrong vacation.


Thanks for reading, friends. It's great to read your comments, too. As an introvert, I convince myself into thinking I can never get enough "alone time". However, drop me in a country in which the locals and I share just enough common language to negotiate the price of postcards, and it leaves me alone with my thoughts for days at a time...a scenario those who know me best would say still requires supervision. I miss you, friends.

Location:Mani Peninsula, Greece

Now, the coffee is waiting on me.


Taken at Kardamyli

28 September 2011

Yes, just like JR Ewing.

I realized today there are a number of things I do when I'm traveling that I never EVER do when I'm home:

• When people see me, often their first question is (and lately, with a Greek accent), "Wherrre arre yoooou, frahm?" I'm not criticizing, but rather just trying to accurately represent the experience. Rather than start with the 'United States' - and maybe this is just the Texan in me - I just say 'I'm from Dallas.' Without exception, young or old, male or female, I receive one of two replies: "Like JR Ewing?" or "Dallas Cowboys!" Yes, 80's drama and Pro Football are our exports. I do suppose that's better than being known for Rick Perry or George W. Bush;

• Language is another big area of difference. Learning Greek is just not an option, so my new friends and I default to English. To ease their transition and to be understood, I speak clearly, slowly, and use a first grade vocabulary, 'I like your city. It is nice. People are friendly.' Or as the day wears on, I eliminate articles and go straight to the salient nouns, 'espresso, ice, big, no sugar'. If you've never listened to the story of David Sedaris learning to speak French, give yourself a gift and listen to Jesus Shaves;

• Sight-seeing in an urban center is different than touring the countryside or staying in some resort somewhere. Besides the obvious differences, the main obstacle than comes to my mind is 'Where can I use the restroom?' Now, you'd think this was simple enough as to just go into any building and ask. But that solution has already occurred to every Mauricio, Ian, and Svetlana also touring this city. And the shopkeepers have responded with a resounding, "WC for customers only". This further complicates things as now I have to coordinate purchases and the potty. So here's my confession, and I'm not proud of this, but sometimes I will pretend to shop only to duck into the restroom and lock the door when the merchant is not looking. This usually works out, but there are times when I'm the one who is surprised.

Today was my day to sightsee in the city of Athens. I got my bearings yesterday, and today was all about the Acropolis, the National Archeological Museum, the Agora, and a walking tour of the city. It was a full, but exciting day with more than a few surprises. While visiting these wonders, I had two separate men, probably in their 80's, initiate conversations with me. Both had lived for a time in the United States, but based on their English, it was either a long time ago or they stayed mainly with other Greeks. In addition to using the Greek version of personal space, they both were very insistent on me going with them to a.) a bar to try ouzo and orange juice, and b.) come home with them and meet their daughters. And by 'very insistent' I mean they took me by one arm and put the other around my waist and began walking me down the street. By the second guy, I had my story down: 'Thank you but I have a woman waiting for me...if you know what I mean .' Of course, I meant Martha, the receptionist at my hotel.

I had timed my walking turnoff the city for me to be at the Areopagus or Mars Hill by sunset. This was the site on which the apostle, Paul, addressed the Athenian scholars, philosophers, and teachers of the day. In later centuries, this same area would host Socrates, Plato, and Arisotle. What a rush to worship on top of Mars Hill and read Paul's words from Act 17, spoken almost 2,000 years ago on this very spot:

“The God who made the world and everything in it is the Lord of heaven and earth and does not live in temples built by hands." Acts 17:24

With the Acropolis clearly visible in the distance, Paul was making a powerful point both about the culture he was addressing and about the God we worship.

Good night, dear friends. Tomorrow, I hit the road!

Location:Αν. Ζίννη, Athens, Greece

25 September 2011

Day 1: Dallas -> Frankfurt -> Athens

Well, I finally managed to get everything done, closed up my house, office, and life in Dallas for a while and begin my journey. It is a big undertaking to prepare to be gone for a month: there's all the financial and logistical prep required to make certain Michael, Inc., keeps rolling and paying the bills even when I'm gone, then getting everything settled at work, and finally, actually preparing to see the places I'm going. Unfortunately, I was so consumed with getting ready to leave, I didn't really feel any excitement or anticipation until toward the end of this last week when I began to see an end in sight. Further complicating matters, I had an unusual bout of anxiety over the last two weeks or so.

Before I go any further, I want to especially thank my employer, Salesmanship Club, for allowing me this much-needed mini-sabbatical. [Personally, I've come to think of it as my little equivalent to maternity leave...except I give birth to a much refreshed and culturally-expanded me.] Thank you also to my work colleagues, church community, dear friends, and family for your patience with my frenetic, anxious, and unfocused demeanor for this last month or so. If it helps in your mind to expand this 'month' to the last decade, more or less, you should feel free to do that, too. I have leaned on you too much at times, but am so thankful to have you in my life. How do people "do life" in isolation? For all my neuroses, life would be so much worse without being surrounded by those who know and love me...or are master thespians.




OK, enough of that and back to my travels. In October of 2009 my work BFF (and travel companion to Banff, Canada, November 2010), Welby Pinney, made me aware of a "miles amassing opportunity" with the soon-to-be-merged Continental and United Airlines. The scam completely-legal-but-highly-involved project required me, over the course of a year, to open a number of Chase Bank accounts, credit and debit cards, make a number of transactions, and then once Continental and United made it possible in February 2011, merging the accumulated miles into one account. Besides the time and attention to detail it took, the entire effort only cost me $60 for one year of credit card fees...which I eventually got back, as you'll see. When it was all said and done, I had accumulated 120,000 Continental Airlines miles, more than enough to fly First Class on Lufthansa from Dallas to Athens and then an economy return to Dallas from Tel Aviv, both via Frankfurt. By redeeming these miles through the Star Alliance program, I was only required to pay the taxes on my flights, totally $116. And because I paid that charge using the $60 credit card I mentioned, my bag fees of $75 were waived. Although finding good deals is no unusual for me, this was definitely one of my better scores.




Because I don't fly first class that often...if ever, I was more than a little excited. But at the same time, I wanted to keep my cool and avoid declaring to the world , "OH MY GOODNESS!! THEY'VE GIVEN ME HOT NUTS!" That being said, I do still enjoy a bit of quiet reveling.

YouTube Video


The flight to Frankfurt on Lufthansa was luxurious! What a great way to begin a vacation. As this was an overnight flight, one of the perks was the 180° recline on the seat to become a bed, fully 2 meters long. Before going to sleep, however, I had an awesome meal, beginning with cavier and crostini. And of course, now that I don't drink alcohol, I'm a free booze magnet. Regardless, the meals have been fantastic. Where else but on European flights do they serve sushi with your scrambled eggs and croissant?







I arrived in Frankfurt at 9:15AM local time (2:15AM, Dallas time). While I'd been scheduled for a 2:30PM flight to Athens, I noticed on the monitor the 9:10AM was delayed until 10:10AM. Score! I hustled to the Lufthansa Customer Service station - using the super-convenient First Class HOV lane - and after about three vünderbahs Helga scored me a seat on the earlier flight to Athens...and more importantly, made certain to have my checked luggage come out first in Athens! Vündabah indeed, Helga!

Well, I've finally arrived at my hotel in Athens, having had a few minutes to finish this blog on the metro. Now, I have just enough time to see the Acropolis Museum!

Location:Athens, Greece

23 September 2011

40 Hours and Counting!

Well, I've committed to keeping a blog updated of this little journey I'm about to take. So I had might as well get started.

By my calculations (of questionable quality at 12:45AM), I'm 40 hours away from departure. In case you have somehow avoided being sucked into my vortex of trip preparations over the last 6 months or so and are in the dark as to what I'm referencing, I'll give some details.

On Saturday, September 24, I'll be traveling from Dallas to Athens, Greece, for the first part of my little journey. After 10+ days exploring the Peloponnese Peninsula, I'll cross the Aegean Sea by boat through the Greek Islands and eventually take land in Kudsadasi. This begins the Turkey leg of my trip. I'll finish up my 10+ days traveling around Turkey in Istanbul, when on October 17 I'll fly to Amman, Jordan. Once there, I'll meet up with my parents and a pre-arranged tour group of those well-eligible to receive the full value of their Social Security benefits. For the last third of my trip, I will be spending 10+ days visiting holy sites in Jordan and Israel with my mom and dad.

It's gonna be a great trip. After months of planning, I think I'm actually ready to go. I'm even a little excited! Forgive my understated enthusiasm. I've been consumed with buying travel insurance, informing credit card companies I'll be traveling internationally, buying sink-washable articles of clothing, and learning all I can about the countries I'll be visiting.

Tonight, I actually went ahead and prepped my backpack. While I've been gathering things for a while now, tonight - two days before I leave - is when I like to pack in anticipation of needing to leave as much time as possible before I leave for unexpected developments. So far, so good. Here's what my uncompressed bag looks like:


Of course, 'Quito is more than curious about all this movement and preparation around the house. For those pet-lovers out there, my parents will take care of the "grandcat" until they leave, and will then pass off the scooper to a trustworthy neighborhood child. You'll notice his plaid carrier on the lefthand side of the picture. This is his cat-carrier. I've learned the hard way to get this out a few days before I leave. This saves me a last-minute freak-out trying to extract my anywherebuthomeaphobic cat from behind the dryer.

OK, I'm sleepy and need to get some rest before tomorrow. I only slept 4 hours last night and need to catch up tonight.

Thanks for reading. Feel free to comment, share the blog with your social networks, or eat an entire pan of brownies. What do I care? I'm going on vacation! Good night, friends.

Location:Still in Dallas...